--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@...> wrote:
>
> Yep, I agree with Tom on this. Here is an ASCII pictogram of the "wiring" if you will for the 4n35 optocoupler circuit. Pin 3 is not connected, and you need not connect pin 6 either, though it may be wise to connect it to ground via a decoupler cap (0.1 uF is what I've shown here). P stands for "pin".
>
>
> +12V KFlop Gnd
> | |
> | = 0.1 uF ceramic or NC
> | _________ |
> |__|P1 P6|___| ____________Kflop LVTTL input
> | | |
> __|P2 P5|______|___/\/\____ +3.3V
> | | | R = ~3kohm
> | |P3 P4|____
> | |_________| |
> | |
> | |
> - Touchplate Kflop Gnd
> - Router body
> |
> |
> Common point power gnd
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dennis,
> >  
> > Smart.  The idea would be to have about 20ma of current flow and turn on the LED when the touch plate is conducting.  Those devices have a CTR (current transfer ratio) of 100% min which means 20ma through the Diode will allow the output to conduct at least 20ma on the output.  To save one resistor you might use one of the first 8 IO on JP4 or JP6 which have internal pull down resistors of 150 ohms.  You can power the LED from any voltage 5, 12, 24V just adjust the series resistor to get about 20ma.  So for example using 12V the series resistor would be ~10V/0.02A = 500 ohms.  (Power dissipation of 10V x 0.02A = 0.2W).
> >  
> > +12V
> >   |
> >   |
> > 500 ohm
> >   |
> >   |
> > Opto LED pin 1
> > Opto LED pin 2
> >   |
> >   |
> > Touch Plate
> >   |
> >   |
> > Earth GND
> >   |
> > DC GND
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > +3.3V
> >   |
> >   |
> > Opto Collector pin 5
> > Opto Emmiter pin 6
> >   |
> >   |
> > KFLOP input with Pull Down (ie JP4 Pin5)
> >  
> >  
> > TK
> >  
> >
> > From: Dennis <dennis@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 8:37 PM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >
> > Thanks guys!
> >
> > So Erik, I just ordered a few 4n35 from Jameco. Could you enlighten me on how to hook them up? I'd really appreciate it.
> >
> > Here is the link to the Jameco product page. There's a link to the spec sheet on the page.
> > https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=41056&catalogId=10001&krypto=9x3mj8umRTr2bLyjAD4Fael1vVWROgEFk3%2B6V3qZSImRVD9qn3OegA%3D%3D&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Dennis,
> > >  
> > > I agree with Erik.  KFlop's 3.3V inputs will be damaged if ever driven above 3.9V or below -0.6V.  They have ESD protection but there is a limit to what that can protect against.  Running an input pin 10ft away and directly connecting it to an exposed plate that then connects to a noisy earth ground is almost asking for trouble.  Earth grounds can often have 10V of voltage spikes or more.
> > >  
> > > If you don't have an opto coupler then as a variation of Ray's method place a resistor in series to the input pin near KFLOP to help protect KFLOP.  A 10V spike on the touch plate will then just feed ~10ma into the input and not cause any damage.   So for example do:
> > >  
> > > + 3.3V
> > >    |
> > >    |
> > > 300 ohm
> > >    |
> > >    |
> > > ---X------------ 1K ohm ------ >  KFLOP Input
> > >    |
> > >    |
> > >    |
> > >    |  (long wire)
> > >    |
> > >    |
> > > Touch Plate/GND
> > >  
> > >  
> > > TK
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: quelisto <quelisto@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 6:44 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > > All of that is very good advice (especially the common point ground), but I would still insist that use an optocoupler between your input and your touchplate. Otherwise, you could get false triggering at the very least, and possible board-level damage if an ESD discharge occurs on the input. You can buy optocouplers for about each $2 at Radioshack, or ~$1.00/ea. from Digikey/Mouser/Jameco/Newark/Arrow if you can stand to wait a few days for the mail order to arrive.
> > >
> > > For anything that is to last in an industrial/prosumer hobbyist machine tool environment, you need to use optocoupled inputs, it's just cheap insurance for the Kflop, and it will elad to FAR, FAR less false triggering (both because of the isolation as well as the low output impedance).
> > >
> > > -Erik-
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > So let me see if I'm understanding this right.
> > > >
> > > > 1) Ground the router to my common grounding strip which is tied to earth ground.
> > > > 2) Tie all unused inputs to +3.3VDC with a 300ohm resistor to pull them all high. (I'm assuming this is to avoid floating i/o.
> > > > 3) Attach the touch off plate to one of my inputs from step 2.
> > > >
> > > > Once all the above is complete, when my tool that's tied to earth ground touches the plate that's connected to the high input, the input will be pulled low.
> > > >
> > > > Does this all sound correct?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Just for safety sake, the router should be grounded to your system ground, NOT directly the KFlop. You should have ALL the grounds in your system tied together at one common point.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards,
> > > > > Ray L.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hey guys, thanks for the advice.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The Kanalog is on the wish list, but right now I just have the KFlop.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Would the router be attached to the digital ground, i.e. JP6, pin 8 or 9?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dennis
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Unsolicted advice...if you have a Kanalog, use one of the opto inputs instead of a LVTTL input. The 3.3v LVTTL i/os are REALLY sensitive. I've had Kflops reset because someone touched or even just brushed past an insulated wire - just the capacitive interaction was enough. To say they are susceptible to stray electric field interference is an understatement. As an alternaitve to using a Kanalog opto input, make your own optoisolated interface to a Kflop with a 4n35 or equivalent.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > You should ground the case of the router. Then attach a stiff pullup resistor (300 ohms or so) between 3.3V and any unused I/O, and configure that I/O as an input. Connect that I/O to your touchplate. When the tool touches the touchplate, the input will go low.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > > > Ray L.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of getting everything together to setup a auto tool zero routine using Mach3 and a KFlop board.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > My router is a Porter Cable 7518 and it doesn't have a ground lug on the plug. I'm not sure if that means all of the electronics inside are fully insulated from the metal body or not. When I dissembled my last PC 7518, I don't remember seeing anything that contacted the metal body.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > So, with that being said, would I wire it like this?:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > IO34(JP6, Pin 15) on my KFlop would connect to the motor housing, since this input is pulled low.
> > > > > > > > > VDD33 (JP6, pin3) would attach to the touch off plate.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I'm thinking of wiring this way because if the router body is connected to earth ground and I connect the +3.3VDC (VDD33 (JP6, pin3))to the router body, I'm essentially causing a direct short to the negative side of my DC power supply, which is bonded to earth ground.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Dennis
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thank you guys for the information. I'm very excited to get this going. I think my 4n35's should be here tomorrow.
>
> I've uploaded a couple of schematics, one with and one without the pull up resistor.
>
> The input I'm using is already pulled low so I shouldn't need the pull up resistor (like TK already suggested). Also, the power supply I'm thinking of using is 24VDC so I've re-sized the resistor to 1.2Kohms and .5W.
>
> Could someone take a look at the two schematics a make sure their correct. Their located in the Attachments area in the 4n35 wiring folder.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Dennis
>
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@> wrote:
> >
> > Yep, I agree with Tom on this. Here is an ASCII pictogram of the "wiring" if you will for the 4n35 optocoupler circuit. Pin 3 is not connected, and you need not connect pin 6 either, though it may be wise to connect it to ground via a decoupler cap (0.1 uF is what I've shown here). P stands for "pin".
> >
> >
> > +12V KFlop Gnd
> > | |
> > | = 0.1 uF ceramic or NC
> > | _________ |
> > |__|P1 P6|___| ____________Kflop LVTTL input
> > | | |
> > __|P2 P5|______|___/\/\____ +3.3V
> > | | | R = ~3kohm
> > | |P3 P4|____
> > | |_________| |
> > | |
> > | |
> > - Touchplate Kflop Gnd
> > - Router body
> > |
> > |
> > Common point power gnd
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Dennis,
> > >  
> > > Smart.  The idea would be to have about 20ma of current flow and turn on the LED when the touch plate is conducting.  Those devices have a CTR (current transfer ratio) of 100% min which means 20ma through the Diode will allow the output to conduct at least 20ma on the output.  To save one resistor you might use one of the first 8 IO on JP4 or JP6 which have internal pull down resistors of 150 ohms.  You can power the LED from any voltage 5, 12, 24V just adjust the series resistor to get about 20ma.  So for example using 12V the series resistor would be ~10V/0.02A = 500 ohms.  (Power dissipation of 10V x 0.02A = 0.2W).
> > >  
> > > +12V
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > 500 ohm
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Opto LED pin 1
> > > Opto LED pin 2
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Touch Plate
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Earth GND
> > >   |
> > > DC GND
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > > +3.3V
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Opto Collector pin 5
> > > Opto Emmiter pin 6
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > KFLOP input with Pull Down (ie JP4 Pin5)
> > >  
> > >  
> > > TK
> > >  
> > >
> > > From: Dennis <dennis@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 8:37 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks guys!
> > >
> > > So Erik, I just ordered a few 4n35 from Jameco. Could you enlighten me on how to hook them up? I'd really appreciate it.
> > >
> > > Here is the link to the Jameco product page. There's a link to the spec sheet on the page.
> > > https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=41056&catalogId=10001&krypto=9x3mj8umRTr2bLyjAD4Fael1vVWROgEFk3%2B6V3qZSImRVD9qn3OegA%3D%3D&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Dennis
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Dennis,
> > > >  
> > > > I agree with Erik.  KFlop's 3.3V inputs will be damaged if ever driven above 3.9V or below -0.6V.  They have ESD protection but there is a limit to what that can protect against.  Running an input pin 10ft away and directly connecting it to an exposed plate that then connects to a noisy earth ground is almost asking for trouble.  Earth grounds can often have 10V of voltage spikes or more.
> > > >  
> > > > If you don't have an opto coupler then as a variation of Ray's method place a resistor in series to the input pin near KFLOP to help protect KFLOP.  A 10V spike on the touch plate will then just feed ~10ma into the input and not cause any damage.   So for example do:
> > > >  
> > > > + 3.3V
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > 300 ohm
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > ---X------------ 1K ohm ------ >  KFLOP Input
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > >    |  (long wire)
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > Touch Plate/GND
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > TK
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: quelisto <quelisto@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 6:44 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > > All of that is very good advice (especially the common point ground), but I would still insist that use an optocoupler between your input and your touchplate. Otherwise, you could get false triggering at the very least, and possible board-level damage if an ESD discharge occurs on the input. You can buy optocouplers for about each $2 at Radioshack, or ~$1.00/ea. from Digikey/Mouser/Jameco/Newark/Arrow if you can stand to wait a few days for the mail order to arrive.
> > > >
> > > > For anything that is to last in an industrial/prosumer hobbyist machine tool environment, you need to use optocoupled inputs, it's just cheap insurance for the Kflop, and it will elad to FAR, FAR less false triggering (both because of the isolation as well as the low output impedance).
> > > >
> > > > -Erik-
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > So let me see if I'm understanding this right.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1) Ground the router to my common grounding strip which is tied to earth ground.
> > > > > 2) Tie all unused inputs to +3.3VDC with a 300ohm resistor to pull them all high. (I'm assuming this is to avoid floating i/o.
> > > > > 3) Attach the touch off plate to one of my inputs from step 2.
> > > > >
> > > > > Once all the above is complete, when my tool that's tied to earth ground touches the plate that's connected to the high input, the input will be pulled low.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does this all sound correct?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Dennis
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Just for safety sake, the router should be grounded to your system ground, NOT directly the KFlop. You should have ALL the grounds in your system tied together at one common point.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > Ray L.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hey guys, thanks for the advice.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The Kanalog is on the wish list, but right now I just have the KFlop.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Would the router be attached to the digital ground, i.e. JP6, pin 8 or 9?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dennis
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Unsolicted advice...if you have a Kanalog, use one of the opto inputs instead of a LVTTL input. The 3.3v LVTTL i/os are REALLY sensitive. I've had Kflops reset because someone touched or even just brushed past an insulated wire - just the capacitive interaction was enough. To say they are susceptible to stray electric field interference is an understatement. As an alternaitve to using a Kanalog opto input, make your own optoisolated interface to a Kflop with a 4n35 or equivalent.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > You should ground the case of the router. Then attach a stiff pullup resistor (300 ohms or so) between 3.3V and any unused I/O, and configure that I/O as an input. Connect that I/O to your touchplate. When the tool touches the touchplate, the input will go low.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > > > > Ray L.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of getting everything together to setup a auto tool zero routine using Mach3 and a KFlop board.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > My router is a Porter Cable 7518 and it doesn't have a ground lug on the plug. I'm not sure if that means all of the electronics inside are fully insulated from the metal body or not. When I dissembled my last PC 7518, I don't remember seeing anything that contacted the metal body.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > So, with that being said, would I wire it like this?:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > IO34(JP6, Pin 15) on my KFlop would connect to the motor housing, since this input is pulled low.
> > > > > > > > > > VDD33 (JP6, pin3) would attach to the touch off plate.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I'm thinking of wiring this way because if the router body is connected to earth ground and I connect the +3.3VDC (VDD33 (JP6, pin3))to the router body, I'm essentially causing a direct short to the negative side of my DC power supply, which is bonded to earth ground.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Dennis
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thank you guys for the information. I'm very excited to get this going. I think my 4n35's should be here tomorrow.
>
> I've uploaded a couple of schematics, one with and one without the pull up resistor.
>
> The input I'm using is already pulled low so I shouldn't need the pull up resistor (like TK already suggested). Also, the power supply I'm thinking of using is 24VDC so I've re-sized the resistor to 1.2Kohms and .5W.
>
> Could someone take a look at the two schematics a make sure their correct. Their located in the Attachments area in the 4n35 wiring folder.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Dennis
>
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@> wrote:
> >
> > Yep, I agree with Tom on this. Here is an ASCII pictogram of the "wiring" if you will for the 4n35 optocoupler circuit. Pin 3 is not connected, and you need not connect pin 6 either, though it may be wise to connect it to ground via a decoupler cap (0.1 uF is what I've shown here). P stands for "pin".
> >
> >
> > +12V KFlop Gnd
> > | |
> > | = 0.1 uF ceramic or NC
> > | _________ |
> > |__|P1 P6|___| ____________Kflop LVTTL input
> > | | |
> > __|P2 P5|______|___/\/\____ +3.3V
> > | | | R = ~3kohm
> > | |P3 P4|____
> > | |_________| |
> > | |
> > | |
> > - Touchplate Kflop Gnd
> > - Router body
> > |
> > |
> > Common point power gnd
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Dennis,
> > >  
> > > Smart.  The idea would be to have about 20ma of current flow and turn on the LED when the touch plate is conducting.  Those devices have a CTR (current transfer ratio) of 100% min which means 20ma through the Diode will allow the output to conduct at least 20ma on the output.  To save one resistor you might use one of the first 8 IO on JP4 or JP6 which have internal pull down resistors of 150 ohms.  You can power the LED from any voltage 5, 12, 24V just adjust the series resistor to get about 20ma.  So for example using 12V the series resistor would be ~10V/0.02A = 500 ohms.  (Power dissipation of 10V x 0.02A = 0.2W).
> > >  
> > > +12V
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > 500 ohm
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Opto LED pin 1
> > > Opto LED pin 2
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Touch Plate
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Earth GND
> > >   |
> > > DC GND
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > > +3.3V
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > Opto Collector pin 5
> > > Opto Emmiter pin 6
> > >   |
> > >   |
> > > KFLOP input with Pull Down (ie JP4 Pin5)
> > >  
> > >  
> > > TK
> > >  
> > >
> > > From: Dennis <dennis@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 8:37 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks guys!
> > >
> > > So Erik, I just ordered a few 4n35 from Jameco. Could you enlighten me on how to hook them up? I'd really appreciate it.
> > >
> > > Here is the link to the Jameco product page. There's a link to the spec sheet on the page.
> > > https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=41056&catalogId=10001&krypto=9x3mj8umRTr2bLyjAD4Fael1vVWROgEFk3%2B6V3qZSImRVD9qn3OegA%3D%3D&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Dennis
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Dennis,
> > > >  
> > > > I agree with Erik.  KFlop's 3.3V inputs will be damaged if ever driven above 3.9V or below -0.6V.  They have ESD protection but there is a limit to what that can protect against.  Running an input pin 10ft away and directly connecting it to an exposed plate that then connects to a noisy earth ground is almost asking for trouble.  Earth grounds can often have 10V of voltage spikes or more.
> > > >  
> > > > If you don't have an opto coupler then as a variation of Ray's method place a resistor in series to the input pin near KFLOP to help protect KFLOP.  A 10V spike on the touch plate will then just feed ~10ma into the input and not cause any damage.   So for example do:
> > > >  
> > > > + 3.3V
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > 300 ohm
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > ---X------------ 1K ohm ------ >  KFLOP Input
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > >    |  (long wire)
> > > >    |
> > > >    |
> > > > Touch Plate/GND
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > TK
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: quelisto <quelisto@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 6:44 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: Auto Tool Zero wiring
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > > All of that is very good advice (especially the common point ground), but I would still insist that use an optocoupler between your input and your touchplate. Otherwise, you could get false triggering at the very least, and possible board-level damage if an ESD discharge occurs on the input. You can buy optocouplers for about each $2 at Radioshack, or ~$1.00/ea. from Digikey/Mouser/Jameco/Newark/Arrow if you can stand to wait a few days for the mail order to arrive.
> > > >
> > > > For anything that is to last in an industrial/prosumer hobbyist machine tool environment, you need to use optocoupled inputs, it's just cheap insurance for the Kflop, and it will elad to FAR, FAR less false triggering (both because of the isolation as well as the low output impedance).
> > > >
> > > > -Erik-
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > So let me see if I'm understanding this right.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1) Ground the router to my common grounding strip which is tied to earth ground.
> > > > > 2) Tie all unused inputs to +3.3VDC with a 300ohm resistor to pull them all high. (I'm assuming this is to avoid floating i/o.
> > > > > 3) Attach the touch off plate to one of my inputs from step 2.
> > > > >
> > > > > Once all the above is complete, when my tool that's tied to earth ground touches the plate that's connected to the high input, the input will be pulled low.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does this all sound correct?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Dennis
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Just for safety sake, the router should be grounded to your system ground, NOT directly the KFlop. You should have ALL the grounds in your system tied together at one common point.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > Ray L.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hey guys, thanks for the advice.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The Kanalog is on the wish list, but right now I just have the KFlop.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Would the router be attached to the digital ground, i.e. JP6, pin 8 or 9?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dennis
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "quelisto" <quelisto@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Unsolicted advice...if you have a Kanalog, use one of the opto inputs instead of a LVTTL input. The 3.3v LVTTL i/os are REALLY sensitive. I've had Kflops reset because someone touched or even just brushed past an insulated wire - just the capacitive interaction was enough. To say they are susceptible to stray electric field interference is an understatement. As an alternaitve to using a Kanalog opto input, make your own optoisolated interface to a Kflop with a 4n35 or equivalent.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "himykabibble" <jagboy@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > You should ground the case of the router. Then attach a stiff pullup resistor (300 ohms or so) between 3.3V and any unused I/O, and configure that I/O as an input. Connect that I/O to your touchplate. When the tool touches the touchplate, the input will go low.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > > > > Ray L.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" <dennis@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of getting everything together to setup a auto tool zero routine using Mach3 and a KFlop board.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > My router is a Porter Cable 7518 and it doesn't have a ground lug on the plug. I'm not sure if that means all of the electronics inside are fully insulated from the metal body or not. When I dissembled my last PC 7518, I don't remember seeing anything that contacted the metal body.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > So, with that being said, would I wire it like this?:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > IO34(JP6, Pin 15) on my KFlop would connect to the motor housing, since this input is pulled low.
> > > > > > > > > > VDD33 (JP6, pin3) would attach to the touch off plate.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I'm thinking of wiring this way because if the router body is connected to earth ground and I connect the +3.3VDC (VDD33 (JP6, pin3))to the router body, I'm essentially causing a direct short to the negative side of my DC power supply, which is bonded to earth ground.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Dennis
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